Way out East

A couple walking on Gullane beach
The East Lothian coast stretches away from the hustle and bustle of the city of Edinburgh out into glorious big sky country. Once past former mining towns such as Prestonpans, the countryside opens up and you can begin to feel the freedom in your soul. Just folow the coast road.

Gosford Bay introduces you to the wild and wonderful coast. There are several car parks in the dunes from which you can step down to the seaweed-strewn shore. Next is the pretty village of Aberlady, and the wildlife reserve of Aberlady Bay. If you find romance in the wonders of nature, or if you’re in one of those moods where only the natural world can warm your heart, stop here in late afternoon on a cold day in autumn or winter to watch the geese come to bed. They appear above in parties until the sky is peppered with thousands of birds. Then they drop one in their groups onto the marshes for a safe night’s sleep. Wish them well, they will give you an unforgettable experience.

A little up the coast is twee Gullane. There are some very nice houses here, if you’re the sort who likes to snoop, and places to refuel with for a decent pub lunch. Sit outside if you can on the odd day when the sun has got his hat on, so you can catch some rays to round off your weather-beaten tan. Gullane’s beach is superb, as long as the tide’s not in – a sweeping strand of sand ideal for big dogs chasing sticks, and walking off lunch.

Venture a few miles further on from Gullane, find the turning down to Yellowcraigs with its dramatic double beach, one facing the islet of Fidra, the other looking towards North Berwick Law, separated by an expanse of rock pools. Direlton itself is picture postcard stuff, with a village green and ruined castle.

A visit to the old seaside town of North Berwick, about 40 minutes from Edinburgh, is like stepping back in time, probably to a childhood holiday by the seaside when all you wanted in your suitcase was a bucket and spade and all you wished for was the sun to shine. Oh, and maybe an ice cream. The charming little town offers it all: there are ice cream parlours, a couple of really good beaches, tea shops, fish n’ chip shops, crazy golf, the Scottish Seabird Centre and boat trips to see the birds of Bass Rock.

An alfresco coffee at the Seabird Centre café at the Seabird Centre comes highly recommended, though you’ll need your pashmina on, and maybe a tartan blanket round your legs too! If you are feeling more energetic, cimb the 613-foot volcanic North Berwick Law for cracking views across East Lothian and over to Fife.

Beyond North Berwick is Seacliff Beach, which as far as beaches go probably tops the lot, mostly thanks to its isolation. Down a winding track through woods that comes out on a bluff under cliffs, from where you can admire this Seychelles-esque stretch (ok, that’s pushing it a little). Seabirds wheel above and the surf crashes in over wee islands and jagged rocks. Forget the stresses of city life and savour having only just the wildlife and the waves for company, although you may be interrupted by the odd surfer catching the swell.

As the peachy pink sunset shimmers over silver sands, you won’t want to go home. You don’t have to, really, as there are a fair few hotels and B&Bs in town.



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